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Animal Farm

Sebastien Bonneu and Countryside Farm

BY MM PACKFRI., NOV. 20, 2009

PHOTO BY JOHN ANDERSON
Deep in the woods between Austin and Bastrop, Sebastien Bonneu of Countryside Farm raises animals for meat. Not the usual beef or goats found in Central Texas, but rabbits, ducks, geese, chickens, guineas, and pigeons. A former chef reared on a farm near Bordeaux, France, Bonneu espouses European sensibilities and methods for husbanding, harvesting, and purveying small domestic animals on a nonindustrial, human scale, and his customers at farmers' markets and upscale restaurants in Austin and Houston appreciate the results of his labor.....